Acne Studios Care Guide

A piece from Acne Studios is made to last years, not seasons — but only if you treat it accordingly. The difference between a coat that looks sharp after five winters and one that pills, sags, or fades usually comes down to a handful of small habits: washing less than you think, drying flat instead of hot, and storing things the way they want to be stored. This guide breaks down how to care for every material the brand works with, from raw denim to mohair knits to box-calf leather.

One rule sits above all the others: the care label sewn into the garment is the final authority. Fabrics, blends, and finishes vary from piece to piece, and the symbols on that label reflect exactly what that specific item can handle. Everything below fills in the why and the how — but if it ever contradicts the label, follow the label.

Reading the Care Label First

Before you wash anything, find the label and decode the symbols. They tell you the maximum safe temperature, whether the item can be machine washed or needs hand washing, if it’s safe to tumble dry, what iron setting to use, and whether it can go to a dry cleaner. A tub with a hand inside means hand wash only. A circle means dry clean. A crossed-out symbol always means do not — and ignoring a crossed-out tumble-dry symbol is how most knitwear meets an early end.

When a label feels ambiguous, default to the gentler option. You can always wash again; you can’t un-shrink a sweater.

General Principles That Apply to Everything

Wash less. Most garments need airing more than washing. Hang a piece up after wearing, let it breathe overnight, and wash only when it’s actually dirty or has absorbed odour. Over-washing is the single fastest way to wear clothes out.

Cold water, gentle cycle. Heat is the enemy of colour, shape, and fibre. Cold or lukewarm water on a gentle cycle protects nearly everything that’s machine-safe.

Turn things inside out. This shields the outer surface, prints, and dark dyes from abrasion in the drum.

Skip the dryer when you can. Air drying preserves fit and fibre far better than tumble heat. Reshape while damp and let gravity and time do the work.

Treat stains immediately. A fresh stain blotted with cold water is a minor event. The same stain a week later is a job for a professional.

Cotton and Jersey (T-Shirts, Shirts, Sweatshirts)

Cotton is the most forgiving fabric in the wardrobe, but it still rewards care. Machine wash inside out on a cold, gentle cycle with similar colours. Wash dark and saturated pieces separately for the first few washes, since deep dyes can bleed.

Reshape and hang or lay flat to dry. If you must tumble dry, use low heat and pull the item out slightly damp to limit shrinkage. Iron on a medium setting while still a little damp for the cleanest finish, and turn printed or graphic pieces inside out before pressing so you never put a hot plate directly on the print.

Wool and Knitwear

This is the category that needs the most patience, and it’s where the brand’s signature mohair and wool-blend knits live. The two things that destroy knitwear are heat and agitation, so both have to go.

Hand wash in cool water with a wool-specific detergent, or use the dedicated wool or hand-wash cycle if your machine has a genuine one. Don’t wring or twist — instead, press the water out gently, then roll the garment in a clean towel to absorb the excess. Dry flat on a fresh towel, reshaped to its original dimensions, and keep it away from direct heat and sunlight. Never hang a wet knit; the weight of the water will stretch the shoulders and leave you with a misshapen piece.

Pilling on wool is normal friction, not a defect. A fabric comb or a dedicated pill shaver, used gently, keeps the surface clean. For mohair and other hairy knits, a light shake and a soft brush refreshes the texture between wears.

Cashmere

Cashmere follows the wool rules but asks for even more gentleness. Hand wash cool with a cashmere or mild wool detergent, never rub, and always dry flat. Store it folded rather than hung so the fibres don’t stretch under their own weight. Between wears, let it rest a day before wearing again — the fibres recover their loft with a little breathing room, and rotating pieces extends their life considerably.

Denim

Denim is happiest when it’s washed rarely. Whether you’re caring for a raw, rigid pair or a pre-washed style, the goal is to preserve colour and shape for as long as possible.

For raw and dark denim, hold off on washing for as long as you reasonably can — many people go months. Air the jeans out, spot-clean small marks, and when a wash is genuinely needed, turn them inside out and wash cold on a gentle cycle, ideally on their own or with like colours. This keeps the indigo deep and lets the fades develop naturally where your body creases the fabric.

Pre-washed and stretch denim can handle more frequent washing but still prefers cold water and a gentle cycle. Hang to dry in all cases. Tumble heat shrinks denim, weakens any stretch fibres, and accelerates fading. If they feel snug straight off the line, a few minutes of wear loosens them back to shape.

Leather Garments

Leather jackets, trousers, and similar pieces should never go anywhere near water immersion or a washing machine. Wipe the surface with a soft, slightly damp cloth to lift everyday dust, then let it air dry naturally, away from radiators and direct sun, which dry out and crack the hide.

Condition the leather a couple of times a year with a product made for the specific type — smooth, nappa, or otherwise — to keep it supple. For anything beyond a surface wipe, take it to a leather specialist rather than experimenting. Store leather on a wide, padded hanger so the shoulders hold their shape, and give it room to breathe rather than sealing it in plastic.

Suede

Suede is beautiful and demanding. Keep it dry, and protect it with a suede-specific waterproofing spray before its first wear and periodically after. Brush it with a suede brush in one direction to lift the nap and remove dust. Tackle dry marks with a suede eraser or a gentle rub from a clean rubber. Never use water or standard cleaning products on suede — water spots and stains set quickly, and a soaked piece is a job for a professional. If suede gets caught in rain, let it dry fully at room temperature, then brush it back to life.

Silk and Delicates

Silk and fine viscose pieces are best hand washed cool with a delicate detergent, or dry cleaned if the label calls for it. Don’t wring them; press the water out and roll in a towel, then hang or lay flat away from sunlight, which fades silk fast. Iron on the lowest setting, ideally on the reverse side or through a thin cloth, while the fabric still holds a little moisture. Keep perfume and deodorant away from silk, since both can stain and weaken the fibres over time.

Down and Padded Outerwear

Puffers and padded coats can usually be machine washed, but check the label first. When you can wash them, use cold water on a gentle cycle with a small amount of mild detergent, and run an extra rinse to clear all the suds. The crucial part is the dry: tumble dry on low with a couple of clean tennis or dryer balls, which break up the clumped filling and restore loft. Drying down flat and untumbled leaves it lumpy and flat. Make sure it’s bone dry through the middle before storing, since trapped moisture causes odour and mildew.

Footwear

Leather shoes and boots want a soft brush or cloth to clear dirt, an occasional matching cream or polish to nourish and shine, and time to rest between wears — rotating pairs lets the leather dry out and recover. Use cedar shoe trees to hold shape and absorb moisture. Protect with a leather-appropriate spray, and keep them away from direct heat sources when drying.

Suede footwear follows the suede rules: waterproof before wearing, brush regularly, address marks with a suede eraser, and never soak.

Sneakers and trainers clean up with a soft brush and a damp cloth on the uppers; avoid the washing machine, which warps soles and breaks down glued seams. Air dry away from heat, and stuff with paper to hold shape while they dry.

For every type, let wet shoes dry slowly at room temperature. Forced heat from a radiator cracks leather and unsticks soles.

Bags and Leather Accessories

Wipe leather bags with a soft, dry or barely damp cloth, and condition occasionally to prevent drying. Don’t overstuff them, and stow them with a little tissue or padding inside to hold their structure. Always keep bags out of prolonged sunlight, which fades and dries leather, and store them in their dust bag rather than plastic. Address spills immediately by blotting, never rubbing, and leave deeper cleaning to a leather specialist.

Belts last longest hung or laid flat rather than coiled tightly, which can crack the leather at the fold.

Scarves, Hats, and Gloves

Wool and mohair scarves, beanies, and gloves follow the knitwear approach: hand wash cool, press out water, and dry flat reshaped. Cashmere scarves want the cashmere treatment. Brush mohair and hairy knits gently to keep the texture lofted, and fold rather than hang these pieces so they don’t stretch. Store woollens with cedar blocks or another natural moth deterrent through the warmer months.

Stain Quick Reference

Speed matters more than technique. Blot, don’t rub, and always test any treatment on a hidden area first.

For anything stubborn, set in, or on leather, suede, or silk, stop and take it to a professional cleaner. A failed home attempt usually makes the eventual professional job harder.

Storage

How you store things between wears matters as much as how you wash them.

Hang structured garments — tailoring, coats, shirts — on wide or padded hangers that support the shoulders. Fold knitwear, denim, and anything heavy or stretchy so it doesn’t distort under its own weight on a hanger. Give your wardrobe breathing room rather than cramming it, which creases fabric and crushes shape.

Store everything clean and fully dry, since body oils and food residue attract moths and set into stains over time. Keep pieces out of direct sunlight to prevent fading, use cedar or natural moth repellents with woollens, and reach for breathable garment bags rather than plastic, which traps moisture. Season-out items deserve a wash or clean before they go into long-term storage.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I wash Acne Studios knitwear without ruining it? Hand wash in cool water with a wool detergent, press out the water without wringing, and dry flat reshaped on a towel. Never hang a wet knit and never tumble dry it — heat and weight are what cause shrinking and misshaping.

Can I machine wash Acne Studios denim? Yes, on a cold gentle cycle, inside out. Raw and dark denim should be washed as rarely as possible to keep its colour and develop natural fades. Always hang denim to dry rather than tumble drying, which shrinks it and weakens any stretch.

How do I stop my wool sweater from pilling? Pilling is normal friction rather than a flaw. Remove it gently with a fabric comb or pill shaver, wash inside out, and let knits rest a day between wears so the fibres recover.

How should I clean leather and suede pieces? Leather takes a soft damp wipe and occasional conditioning; suede needs a dedicated brush, a protective spray, and no water. Keep both away from heat and direct sun, and leave deep cleaning or stains to a leather specialist.

Can Acne Studios sneakers go in the washing machine? No. The machine warps soles and weakens glued seams. Clean uppers with a soft brush and damp cloth, then air dry away from heat with paper stuffed inside to hold their shape.

How do I get a stain out without making it worse? Act fast, blot rather than rub, use cold water, and test any product on a hidden spot first. For leather, suede, silk, or set-in stains, go straight to a professional instead of risking a home fix.

Should I dry clean my Acne Studios coat? Follow the care label. Structured wool and tailored coats often call for dry cleaning, while padded and down styles can usually be washed cold and tumble dried low with dryer balls to restore loft. The label’s symbols are the deciding factor.

When in Doubt:

If a piece is valuable, delicate, or you simply aren’t sure, a good professional cleaner is worth it — especially for leather, suede, structured tailoring, and anything with a complex fabric blend. Caring for clothing well isn’t about doing more; it’s about doing less, gently, and consistently. Wash sparingly, dry slowly, store thoughtfully, and a wardrobe stays wearable for years.